Year: 2015

Oh, Papercut Patterns. When will I learn to just always add 2 inches? I thought I could just whip this up from some leftover fabric after this Vogue skirt, on the serger and it would be easypeasy. I even went up a size to a large. All the LOLZ.

I stopped before adding the cuff and just gave it a quick hem to finish it at 3/4 length. A cuff would have been even more ridiculous.

Seriously, WTF did I do to that neck band? Yeah, I can’t blame that on being taller than the Papercut sloper.

My waist is just under my boobs, according to this hot mess.

These are high waisted GAP jeans. If I lift my arms any higher, you’re going to see 4 kids’ worth of stretch marks. No thank you.

So….that’s the last we’re ever going to see of that. Let’s all scrub our brains and go to version 2, ok? ok.

Ah, that’s better. Added 2 inches to the sleeves and to the body.

Unfortunately I added the 2 inches under the waist curve. argh. So, next time I’ll move that above the curve and give The Ladies a bit more room.

Shoulders are good. Sleeves are good. Wouldn’t mind a better fit in the waist…but it’s hard to tell if I need to grade down a size there until I move the waist to my waist.

No more scary neck band. Better fabric quality as well, so that might help. 😀 AND I skipped the serger and used the Viking on the whole thing. More control.

No American Horror Story scarring.

Perhaps stronger evidence that I need to move that waist line down- the bunching after the raising of the arms.

AND good boob coverage. Overall, wearable, comfy version. That pull from behind in the mock wrap right there…not sure what to do about that. Again, I’ll wait to see if dropping the waist down under my 2 inch extension helps…unless someone else out there has some better insight. Meanwhile, I’m going to burn version one, and put this one on now to pick up the kids. Cheers!

I bought this Butterick B5526 pattern during a sale, then I realized I did that thing again where I bought it absent minded, and based on my RTW size. DERP. THAT envelope only goes up to size 12, so I gave it to a more petite friend, and bought it again, determined to make this damn shirt. I’ve been watching lladybird.com make it a bazillion times, and after looking at all the indie button-up shirt options, I decided I really just wanted the Butterick version – all my issues with Big 4 sizing/instructions BE DAMNED.

Me looking loaded in this photo aside, I love this shirt. I’m so glad I bought it. Again. It has already been worn, tucked in, untucked, hung up, worn again, etc. before this photo….so it’s a smidge disheveled, but holds up great. This is mystery basement box fabric and I love it’s Florence Henderson vibe. Makes me want olive appliances. The burn test proved cotton, so yay!

I may want to take in the waist area a bit, but the lengths and shoulders are awesome. I’m so glad I went up in size. I ended up cutting a size 16.

 

Check out that shoulder – so nice not to feel like I’m in a straight-jacket.

The sleeve caps have a LOT of ease. In fact, the sleeves in generally could probably lose about an inch from shoulder to cuff.

I think sewing in sleeves in the round is bullshit. I put in my basting-ease stitches in the cap, lined up my notches and sewed it flat. Not only did I get the same result without being driven to tequila, I also was able to top -stitch/mock flat felled seam everything. Mock meaning I pinked my seams and stitched them down flat. Worked out great.

This was my first collar stand. I was kinda surprised. I went through everything I’ve made – of which maybe 50% is cataloged here….and nope. No collar stands! So of course I put it on wrong. Then I graded/notched seams BEFORE I realized what I did – you can see the left side of the photo, the collar stand is smaller. Yeah. Whoops. So, it’s a bit wonky. Also my first button plackets and somehow I got one of those wrong as you can sorta see from that stitching down the middle. Whatevs. The shoulders and sleeves fit!! All my princess seaming and the length and waist point – happy with that. I’m calling it a win.

The only change I made is the pattern calls for the sleeve placket strip to be cut on grain – that must be a typo, but that’s CRAZY. If just doing a strip-placket….cut that on the bias! This pattern looks circa late 70s; I’m surprised that piece has been left on grain. That has to be wrong – that one I have done before both bias strip versions and proper placket and knew better. The cuffs were pretty easy and not new to me either. Hem was easypeasy.

I may tinker with grading the body down a size, and slimming the sleeves, but really, it’s all good. I think my next version I’ll make sleeveless, and see where I go with the body and the armscye. Does that seem like a reasonable place to start? Will probably be easier to tinker without the sleeves for a few versions? Then work the sleeves back to fit?

 

Finally got my Seamwork Oslo sweater.

I got this crazy fabric during my NYC trip to Mood Fabrics. It’s something else seeing that store in person. It’s not that it’s huge, by like square footage standards, but holy crap they pack a lot in there. The employees are awesome. They remind me of 80s club days where the club workers would be doing cardio on an olympic level to keep up with the crowd, running around in black t-shirts, giving out a swatch here and there. I really got a sense of how much product I miss out on by only being able to order online.

This is an Italian wool blend by Theory. Ka-ching. I bought 3 yards and that was pretty much my entire fabric budget. Totally worth it. I can’t find any Theory garments online in this fabric, but it’s a base knit, with the chunky wool woven on top, in the round, and every 2.5 yards or so, has stripes…so a large panel. I suspect the base knit is like a cotton or cotton blend? The top woven is the wool blend with either angora or an acrylic-like angora….it sheds like angora.

I waited for the Oslo pattern hack. I really wanted a walk through on hacking in the sleeves. This fabric was to remain a wearable blanket for me. I hacked the sleeves, but then I really really didn’t like the shorter sleeves, and I certainly didn’t like all the chunky hems. So I kept hacking. I cut the sleeves, then re-added them longer with a 4″ facing, so keep them neat and cuff-able.

I tinkered with the idea of lining it but that was getting away from my blankie idea, so let it go. I did make a belt – which was a bitch to turn right-side out, so no belt loops.

It’s perfectly warm and snuggly.

and very blankie

I serged the whole thing together, then serged the hem and cuff hems before I hand slip-stitched them up. After seeing all the various Oslos online, I really didn’t want to ruin this fabric with a visible hemline. No offense out there – just not my thing.

 

I’m sure on a less OMFG-how-much-did-I-just-spend-fabric, I’ll be less picky!!

Little bit of a cheat here. I’ve been wearing this every second I can for the last month. I couldn’t believe it was true. It’s SO GOOD.

This is the Paprika Patterns : Jasper Dress. We’re having an “Indian Summer” here in the Pacific Northwest, so it’s been unusually warm and I’ve actually been complaining because I want to wear this dress more. I wish I was being superfluous, but I’m not. I love it.

This is just a Joann’s fleece with a floral emboss thing going on. I didn’t want to make out of anything too expensive in case I was disappointed.

But check that out. It actually fits my shoulders, and I love the sleeve length. I made ZERO size adjustments. The only thing I did differently was topstitch a lot of the seams down, as is my preference. That was it.

The pocket tutorial online is this sort of crazy mental gymnastics, and you just gotta trust the tutorial and do as she says. It’s not impossible to picture, I think mostly because the instructions are really that good, but those ARE welt openings on an enclosed kangaroo pocket. It takes some doin’. The pockets add like half the time it takes to make the dress, but so very worth it.

I may go down a size or two, and grade back to that glorious shoulder width and be a bit more mindful during my topstitching as it was kind of a whim during construction and I could do better…but I really have no complaints about the pattern itself, only my execution and aren’t we all our own worst critics? The pattern is perfection. Now, come on PNW and rain already!!!

Photo-heavy post alert! I busted out 3 of these Akita shirts for my quick trip to NYC last week. Super easy stash buster and wardrobe ‘capsule’ filler. Got that weird long-side of fabric left? Akita! Got a yard or so from a remnant pile? Split the shoulder and Akita!

Akita is now a verb. You just Akita that stash.

This is a Joann’s rayon I bought on impulse because, well, rayon is easy, breezy, beautiful and this pattern is not so crazy that even I can handle it. Mostly. It’s boarder line Yuma, but I say that about everything that isn’t solid black/gray scale.

I totally had enough fabric to pattern match, so I split the pattern at the shoulder to do it, but in my need to bust out 3 shirts, I went too fast and just counted to one of the line repeats…without realizing some repeat twice, out of sequence…so, yeah. WHATEVER.

And I don’t wear it untucked…cuz YUMA, AZ RETIREMENT HOME.

Also awesome thing about rayon: instant cowl neck. Took leftover length, sewed it all together, and bam. Office wear.

Hmmm. I may have to rethink that belt. And I look a little sales monkey. I AM NOT IN SALES. totally real estate agent….too bad I’m WAY too socially inept for that.

Ok, enough self-deprecation for THAT version, let’s start on the next. This is the same cotton/linen as my tunic, just another colorway. I got a smaller amount on the same clearance sale, so I went all AKITA on it.

These are all a size 10. I *almost* cut an 8, but then I remembered my Osaka and how calories don’t count on vacation/holidays and fall layering anyway…

Then I had some mystery silk in some basement-donation box my mom picked up for me – I machine washed it ruthlessly so I could abuse it as a tank or shell, and then AKITA!

It’s ridiculously wrinkled, but let me impress you with my blazer collection…I’ve actually cut back in recent years. Check it out. Velvet and paisley.

How YOU doin’?

ha. so yeah…AKITA FTW! All French seamed, all quick, great dart placement, for me anyway, and great stash buster. and I’m a dork.

Osaka is such a fun word. OSAKA!

This is, of course, the Seamwork Osaka skirt pattern.

I used up some denim I had leftover, some upholstery fabric, and some gingham.

I’m pretty happy with it. This is a size large. Now, like I’ve said before, I usually run a medium even though I measure at a large, but it’s a wrap skirt – the extra play could easily be altered/cinched, right? Um. This ended up so much smaller than I expected I double checked the seam allowance was 5/8″ thinking maybe I missed it at 3/8″ or something….nope. I dunno. Some of the Seamwork photos have the buttons about where mine are, but the pattern has them on the other side of the darts and with more wrap coverage.

So….I have to safety pin at the fabric break to keep from flashing. Whatever.

The length is juuuust at my shortness limit. Colette/Seamwork…well, most ALL patterns really, are a smidge too short for me at my barely 5’9″ frame, but with a wrap, I was thinking more fall layers and leggings, so left it alone. Of course, this was back when I’d have more wrap-coverage, so I may tweak it in the future.

I wasn’t in love with the gingham side when I was sewing it, but am growing to prefer it. The darts/back came out super clean.

Oh, those rosewood buttons are everything, amirite? I got them at Anthony’s Woodshop on Etsy. I need to get some mineral oil or something since I’m ruthless with laundry and throw everything in the wash – it’s a mom thing. No time for fussy. But I do love the buttons. I want some of his earrings next.

This knit is crazy. It’s this base jersey in a muted rust, with a slashed decorative top layer. I’m kinda into it. The swirlies are a bit grandma, but YOLO. I was drawn to it for the ‘wrong’ side; the rust is a perfect color for this twill I have in my stash, but more on that when I get to it.

This Seamwork Aberdeen is spot on my style and another addition to my wardrobe capsule in the everyday wearable category. It’s a less extreme dolman sleeve than my RTW version, and the lower half of the silhouette is more t-shirt, but I dig it. I don’t wear V-necks all that often, so I did a quick scoop, but this complicated knit is a smidge sloppy in the neckline. Probably shoulda reversed it or grabbed some black, but whatevs. I’ll also trace the scoop from my Renfrew next time instead of wingin’ it. The sleeve cuffs tho, OMG. so comfy and easy. I cut this out in the evening and whipped it up in the morning before work: EASY. I think I can move some of the pieces to fold-line pieces since I’m going to omit the V-neck, so that will make it even faster.

I serged the bottom, then did a 3/4 inch turn, and the slightest zig in a knit stitch for the hem.

Looking at the back, I’m wondering if I shouldn’t start doing small sway-back adjustments in my patterns. It would be a bit fussy to do on this knit, but something to keep in mind as I’m eye-balling some more fitted button-ups.

Overall, I can see this pattern being used as often as my Renfrew, I dig it that much. It’s totally my style. My RTW version is a viscose knit, so has way more drapey-mcdrapeyness to it than this rebel-grandma double knit, so I’m looking forward to sewing it up in something with more drape.

And damn, I need a haircut. What do to do next…grow it out? Grow it out some? Go full mullet?

This is one of my preferred silhouettes. Dolman sleeve aka batwing, pencil skirt, in this case a double knit. Comfy, somewhat tailored but also forgiving. Office-ready-secret-pajamas. I need more easy whole-life clothes. I no longer want to differentiate so much between work and home. I want clothes that can pull double-duty and fit ME. My life. At all times. Lurking and quietly playing along with Me Made May and Wardrobe Architect for the last couple years has solidified that desire. My style, 24-7. No compromises.

This is the skirt from Very Easy Vogue V8962, top is RTW.

They’re not kidding. It is VERY easy. My measurements put me between a 16 and 18.

This envelope only goes up to 16, so I cut a 16, but ended up sizing down to less than a 14. Go figure. This happens a lot – I measure larger than I fit, for God knows why. 9 times out of 10, I’m smaller than what I measure to be, and I take that into consideration. I knew this would be easy to alter on the fly, but when doing more complicated patterns, I have to muslin. Is what it is. Makes bras LOTS of fun!

I don’t tuck in this shirt, but wanted to show the elastic waist and fit. As you can see, it’s fitting well – for me this is a good fit. Tight enough to look tailored, but not showing panty lines. We’re not going bodycon here.

It takes less than a yard of fabric (WINNING), and that little vent in the back is genius – no zig-zag or double-needle needed on the hem – I straight-stitched that hem knowing I won’t break it because of that vent. It’s the little things.

In a solid fabric, like a ponte, the seaming and topstitching detail would be cool to see, but they’re great functionally too, making for a feminine fit. Totally great pattern. Took no time at all, some leftover fabric (putting together a Coppelia with the rest of it), serger-friendly. Highly recommend for when you need a quick-fix garment.

Do you? I do. Is it being a sewist and because I can do it myself so I feel like I’ve been duped when I buy something I can easily make? Is it fast fashion/sweatshop guilt? All of the above? I dunno. Probably.

Have you done the Stitch Fix thing? no, this is not a review or a pitch.

I did a couple months of that Stitchfix service. Don’t worry – you can click that – it’s NOT and affiliate link and it goes to their blog not their sign up. Don’t get me wrong – it’s totally fun. I liked it. As a wicked busy working mom, it was great. I do like bargain hunting, but for paying full retail without the hassle, it was fun. I even bought a top.

A top that is almost exactly like the Aberdeen in Seamwork that I HAVE a subscription to…queue guilt and feeling lame. And a loss of $46. I wear it all the time…but I could have made it. I should do a “who made it better!”

I digress.

I did NOT, however, fall for all the cute sleeveless tops or basic dresses. Shirt above aside, I’m not going to buy something I can whip up in a couple hours. I have a LOT of Renfrews and Sorbettos and hacks there-of I never post – see:

I know I can whip these up from practically remnants, so I just can’t fork out $50 for a sleeveless shell. Not going to happen.

Where do you draw the line? I’m not going to make shoes anytime soon, and I don’t find bags fun/worth the effort all that often. But I’m having a hard time even buying pants – because I should be making that shit. Right? Jackets are easy enough, right? I think so and they’re fun. I know there’s a trend in our community of going full handmade only. I dunno. I made some underwear recently, and that was fun, but I don’t get a thrill from swimsuits. I mostly just don’t have the patience for them. Do I draw the line at “I don’t wanna?” I certainly can’t buy a quilt. I’m too picky for that now.

I certainly have a retail block for myself. I haven’t made jeans yet, but that Ginger Jeans pattern is sure tempting.

But $50 for a sleeveless shirt shipped overseas just ain’t doing it for me anymore.