Papercut Patterns: COPPELIA WRAP TOP

Papercut Coppelia

Papercut Coppelia

Oh, Papercut Patterns. When will I learn to just always add 2 inches? I thought I could just whip this up from some leftover fabric after this Vogue skirt, on the serger and it would be easypeasy. I even went up a size to a large. All the LOLZ.

Papercut Coppelia

I stopped before adding the cuff and just gave it a quick hem to finish it at 3/4 length. A cuff would have been even more ridiculous.

Papercut Coppelia

Seriously, WTF did I do to that neck band? Yeah, I can’t blame that on being taller than the Papercut sloper.

Papercut Coppelia

My waist is just under my boobs, according to this hot mess.

Papercut Coppelia

These are high waisted GAP jeans. If I lift my arms any higher, you’re going to see 4 kids’ worth of stretch marks. No thank you.

So….that’s the last we’re ever going to see of that. Let’s all scrub our brains and go to version 2, ok? ok.

Papercut Coppelia

Ah, that’s better. Added 2 inches to the sleeves and to the body.

Papercut Coppelia

Unfortunately I added the 2 inches under the waist curve. argh. So, next time I’ll move that above the curve and give The Ladies a bit more room.

Papercut Coppelia

Shoulders are good. Sleeves are good. Wouldn’t mind a better fit in the waist…but it’s hard to tell if I need to grade down a size there until I move the waist to my waist.

Papercut Coppelia

No more scary neck band. Better fabric quality as well, so that might help. ūüėÄ AND I skipped the serger and used the Viking on the whole thing. More control.

Papercut Coppelia

No American Horror Story scarring.

Papercut Coppelia

Perhaps stronger evidence that I need to move that waist line down- the bunching after the raising of the arms.

Papercut Coppelia

AND good boob coverage. Overall, wearable, comfy version. That pull from behind in the mock wrap right there…not sure what to do about that. Again, I’ll wait to see if dropping the waist down under my 2 inch extension helps…unless someone else out there has some better insight. Meanwhile, I’m going to burn version one, and put this one on now to pick up the kids. Cheers!

Butterick: B5526

Butterick B5526

Butterick B5526

I bought this Butterick B5526 pattern during a sale, then I realized I did that thing again where I bought it absent minded, and based on my RTW size. DERP. THAT envelope only goes up to size 12, so I gave it to a more petite friend, and bought it again, determined to make this damn shirt. I’ve been watching lladybird.com make it a bazillion times, and after looking at all the indie button-up shirt options, I decided I really just wanted the Butterick version – all my issues with Big 4 sizing/instructions BE DAMNED.

Butterick B5526

Me looking loaded in this photo aside, I love this shirt. I’m so glad I bought it. Again. It has already been worn, tucked in, untucked, hung up, worn again, etc. before this photo….so it’s a smidge disheveled, but holds up great. This is mystery basement box fabric and I love it’s Florence Henderson vibe. Makes me want olive appliances. The burn test proved cotton, so yay!

Butterick B5526

I may want to take in the waist area a bit, but the lengths and shoulders are awesome. I’m so glad I went up in size. I ended up cutting a size 16.

Butterick B5526

 

Check out that shoulder – so nice not to feel like I’m in a straight-jacket.

Butterick B5526

The sleeve caps have a LOT of ease. In fact, the sleeves in generally could probably lose about an inch from shoulder to cuff.

Butterick B5526

I think sewing in sleeves in the round is bullshit. I put in my basting-ease stitches in the cap, lined up my notches and sewed it flat. Not only did I get the same result without being driven to tequila, I also was able to top -stitch/mock flat felled seam everything. Mock meaning I pinked my seams and stitched them down flat. Worked out great.

Butterick B5526

This was my first collar stand. I was kinda surprised. I went through everything I’ve made – of which maybe 50% is cataloged here….and nope. No collar stands! So of course I put it on wrong. Then I graded/notched seams BEFORE I realized what I did – you can see the left side of the photo, the collar stand is smaller. Yeah. Whoops. So, it’s a bit wonky. Also my first button plackets and somehow I got one of those wrong as you can sorta see from that stitching down the middle. Whatevs. The shoulders and sleeves fit!! All my princess seaming and the length and waist point – happy with that. I’m calling it a win.

The only change I made is the pattern calls for the sleeve placket strip to be cut on grain – that must be a typo, but that’s CRAZY. If just doing a strip-placket….cut that on the bias! This pattern looks circa late 70s; I’m surprised that piece has been left on grain. That has to be wrong – that one I have done before both bias strip versions and proper placket and knew better. The cuffs were pretty easy and not new to me either. Hem was easypeasy.

Butterick B5526

I may tinker with grading the body down a size, and slimming the sleeves, but really, it’s all good. I think my next version I’ll make sleeveless, and see where I go with the body and the armscye. Does that seem like a reasonable place to start? Will probably be easier to tinker without the sleeves for a few versions? Then work the sleeves back to fit?

 

Seamwork: OSLO

OSLO HEMLINE

Finally got my Seamwork Oslo sweater.

I got this crazy fabric during my NYC trip to Mood Fabrics. It’s something else seeing that store in person. It’s not that it’s huge, by like square footage standards, but holy crap they pack a lot in there. The employees are awesome. They remind me of 80s club days where the club workers would be doing cardio on an olympic level to keep up with the crowd, running around in black t-shirts, giving out a swatch here and there. I really got a sense of how much product I miss out on by only being able to order online.

OSLO INSIDE

This is¬†an Italian wool blend by Theory. Ka-ching. I bought 3 yards and that was pretty much my entire fabric budget. Totally worth it. I can’t find any Theory garments online in this fabric, but it’s a base knit, with the chunky wool woven on top, in the round, and every 2.5 yards or so, has stripes…so a large panel. I suspect the base knit is like a cotton or cotton blend? The top woven is the wool blend with either angora or an acrylic-like angora….it sheds like angora.

OSLO 2

I waited for the Oslo pattern hack. I really wanted a walk through on hacking in the sleeves. This fabric was to remain a wearable blanket for me. I hacked the sleeves, but then I really really didn’t like the shorter sleeves, and I certainly didn’t like all the chunky hems. So I kept hacking. I cut the sleeves, then re-added them longer with a 4″ facing, so keep them neat and cuff-able.

OSLO SLEEVE FACING

I tinkered with the idea of lining it but that was getting away from my blankie idea, so let it go. I did make a belt – which was a bitch to turn right-side out, so no belt loops.

OSLO BELT 2

It’s perfectly warm and snuggly.

OSLO BELT

and very blankie

OSLO 2

I serged the whole thing together, then serged the hem and cuff hems before I hand slip-stitched them up. After seeing all the various Oslos online, I really didn’t want to ruin this fabric with a visible hemline. No offense out there – just not my thing.

OSLO HEMLINE 2

 

I’m sure on a less OMFG-how-much-did-I-just-spend-fabric, I’ll be less picky!!

OSLO 1

Paprika Patterns : JASPER DRESS

Paprika Patterns JASPER DRESS

Little bit of a cheat here. I’ve been wearing this every second I can for the last month. I couldn’t believe it was true. It’s SO GOOD.

JASPER 2

This is the Paprika Patterns : Jasper Dress. We’re having an “Indian Summer” here in the Pacific Northwest, so it’s been unusually warm and I’ve actually been complaining because I want to wear this dress more. I wish I was being superfluous, but I’m not. I love it.

Paprika Jasper Dress

This is just a Joann’s fleece with a floral emboss thing going on. I didn’t want to make out of anything too expensive in case I was disappointed.

Paprika Jasper Dress

But check that out. It actually fits my shoulders, and I love the sleeve length. I made ZERO size adjustments. The only thing I did differently was topstitch a lot of the seams down, as is my preference. That was it.

Paprika Jasper Dress

The pocket tutorial online is this sort of crazy mental gymnastics, and you just gotta trust the tutorial and do as she says. It’s not impossible to picture, I think mostly because the instructions are really that good, but those ARE welt¬†openings on an enclosed kangaroo pocket. It takes some doin’. The pockets¬†add like half the time it takes to make the dress, but so very worth it.

Paprika Jasper Dress

I may go down a size or two, and grade back¬†to that glorious shoulder width and be a bit more mindful during my topstitching as it was kind of a whim during construction and I could do better…but I really have no complaints about the pattern itself, only my execution and aren’t we all our own worst critics? The pattern is perfection. Now, come on PNW and rain already!!!

Seamwork Patterns : AKITA BLOUSE

SEAMWORK AKITA

Photo-heavy post alert! I busted out 3 of these Akita shirts for my quick trip to NYC last week.¬†Super easy stash buster and wardrobe ‘capsule’ filler. Got that weird long-side of fabric left? Akita! Got a yard or so from a remnant pile? Split the shoulder and Akita!

Akita is now a verb. You just Akita that stash.

Akita 2

This is a Joann’s rayon I bought on impulse because, well, rayon is easy, breezy, beautiful and this pattern is not so crazy that even I can handle it. Mostly. It’s boarder line Yuma, but I say that about everything that isn’t solid black/gray scale.

seamwork akita

I totally had enough fabric to pattern match, so I split the¬†pattern at the¬†shoulder to do it,¬†but in my need to bust out 3 shirts, I went too fast and just counted to one of the line repeats…without realizing some repeat twice, out of sequence…so, yeah. WHATEVER.

And I don’t wear it untucked…cuz YUMA, AZ RETIREMENT HOME.

Akita cowl neck

Also awesome thing about rayon: instant cowl neck. Took leftover length, sewed it all together, and bam. Office wear.

work mode

Hmmm. I may have to rethink that belt. And I look a little sales monkey. I AM NOT IN SALES. totally real estate agent….too bad I’m WAY too socially inept for that.

sales monkey

Ok, enough self-deprecation for THAT version, let’s start on the next. This is the same cotton/linen as my tunic, just another colorway. I got a smaller amount on the same clearance sale, so I went all¬†AKITA on it.

Akita Blue

These are all a size 10. I *almost* cut an 8, but then I remembered my Osaka and how calories don’t count on vacation/holidays and fall layering anyway…

akita blue

Then I had some mystery silk in some basement-donation box my mom picked up for me РI machine washed it ruthlessly so I could abuse it as a tank or shell, and then AKITA!

Akita black silk

It’s ridiculously wrinkled, but let me impress you with my blazer collection…I’ve actually cut back in recent years. Check it out. Velvet and paisley.

AKITA with paisley velvet blazer

How YOU doin’?

Joey

ha. so yeah…AKITA FTW! All French seamed, all quick, great dart placement, for me anyway, and great stash buster. and I’m a dork.

dork