This week, Pipe Dream Patterns is showcasing the Inbhir Nis Trench Cape pattern. I tested this pattern along with the 80’s Marion denim jacket…and as I promised a post for the Trench Cape following the Marion, I guess it’s good I’m late on my promise! lol
I recommend looking at the Pipe Dreams feature post, as you can see some of the inspiration photos testers were given…how could I NOT want to test this? It’s EVERYTHING. With the vision of fabric I had in my mind, it’s Cate Blanchett’s dark, mystical roles, it’s dramatic, it’s posh, it’s my 90’s goth dreams. I learned long ago I can’t wholly subscribe to a singular aesthetic, so I asked to test both, and as a bonus I got the add-on hood pattern (to be released at a later date.) I’m the most winningest wannabe part-time old goth.
About the pattern. I’m going to give you a mix of indoor dress form and outdoor on-me shots to hopefully help illustrate the AMAZE that is this pattern.
- It looks SO FANCY and complicated, but I spent more time picking out lining than sewing all 3 parts. For reals. It sews up really fast.
- My lining went in like…PRO. Once you’ve sewn a few patterns with linings, you know how that can be….well, it can be a colossal mess on the bad days. But this…like buttah.
- Modular like IKEA! Want to just wear a Trench vest for that Creative Director interview? BAM! You got it. Trench cape for evening drama? Call me Anna Wintour. Need to have a proper entrance on the Depeche Mode tour? Add the hood. And that’s just with MY fabric choices. Choose a family tartan or hit up Pendleton for entirely different looks.
- Modifications: The trench isn’t really fitted at all, so the base block measurements don’t really come into play unless height is an issue….and with me, it is. I’m a few inches taller than the designer, so I added 2 inches in length to the trench, cape, and 10 inches to the belt length out of personal preference.
Now, let’s get on to the good stuff. I used Mood Fabrics linen suiting, underlined with a cotton flannel, and lined with a poly satin, both from Joann’s. The lining is this crushed-look poly, and it sews and feels much better than you’d expect…so, hey, when you win at Joann’s, it’s awesome. The suiting – you can look for yourself. Highly rated, heavier weight, pretty opaque. It does wrinkle as linen does, but less so both because of the weight and the underlining. I’m not mad at it, and it feels REALLY nice.
Hood down photo. I chose the trench option without the rolled collar because of opting in for the hood. I don’t see myself ever wearing the cape without the hood…so, consider that my thought process there.
The scarf done up and undone covers the front cape buttons most of the time.
On the back, this is the hood button that shows when the scarf is done up.
When the scarf is undone and the hood is up, you can see the cape buttons that are on the trench. I previously put on plastic buttons as holders until these came in (you can see those in photos below), but I recommend if you go with the no collar option, you find buttons that make you happy, because they will show.
Front buttons holding on front of cape are little owls. They’re smaller than I envisioned when ordering them, but honestly with the scarf and hood, no one will know they’re even there but me. Gah, I love that linen and satin together.
Trench lapel is fully faced…Pipe Dreams gives all kinds of options here. You can put in shearling, fully line it so that you have contrasting lapels, or whatever else you can dream up. An easy sew with lots of options means a coat pattern that can make up its cost by giving you multiple garments that are all different. Between that and Pipe Dreams being really fairly priced, I think there’s a lot of value here, and you can spend more money on fabric. Who doesn’t like THAT?
Front trench by itself.
Back trench by itself. Singular belt stay is stylish and easy. Please note again those buttons have been swapped out for the prettier ones above. If you opt for the collared trench, this is a moot point. I’m a D-cup with fairly broad shoulders, hourglass measurements and usually a sway-back adjustments. I added my 2″ height adjustment above the natural waist as I usually do but didn’t make any other adjustments. I think it fits pretty darn good as-is.
You can of course opt to have the belt a solid color…I’m just really into the red. đ
And last, but not least…pockets!
When I saw the pocket pattern piece, I cringed. BUT as a tester, you have to test as-is. I was soooo so so so thrilled with these pockets. I thought for sure these were going to be patch pockets. I hate patch pockets. But these are cleverly caught in the cape seams and really quite cute! It was such a nice surprise.
The new patterns from Pipe Dream are still on sale, I think through the end of the month, so get on your spring coat sewing! This would be the PERFECT coat to wear to Mother’s Day brunch!
Side note: no, I’m not paid by Pipe Dream. I signed up to pattern test with my own time, money, supplies, and fabric. You gotta know by now I’m painfully honest, so all opinions are obviously my own. The only compensation I received was the pattern because I had to make it to test it, some lovely conversation with the designer, and pride in my finished piece. đ
One last side note. I’m thrilled with my buttons. This is not sponsored, nor an ad, nor do they even know I exist. I’m just passing it on because I’m happy with my product. Fair prices, great quality, fast shipping, really great selection. I’m just passing it on if you need a source. I found Button Jones on Etsy, then went and ordered directly from their site.
