I bought this Butterick B5526 pattern during a sale, then I realized I did that thing again where I bought it absent minded, and based on my RTW size. DERP. THAT envelope only goes up to size 12, so I gave it to a more petite friend, and bought it again, determined to make this damn shirt. I’ve been watching lladybird.com make it a bazillion times, and after looking at all the indie button-up shirt options, I decided I really just wanted the Butterick version – all my issues with Big 4 sizing/instructions BE DAMNED.
Me looking loaded in this photo aside, I love this shirt. I’m so glad I bought it. Again. It has already been worn, tucked in, untucked, hung up, worn again, etc. before this photo….so it’s a smidge disheveled, but holds up great. This is mystery basement box fabric and I love it’s Florence Henderson vibe. Makes me want olive appliances. The burn test proved cotton, so yay!
I may want to take in the waist area a bit, but the lengths and shoulders are awesome. I’m so glad I went up in size. I ended up cutting a size 16.
Check out that shoulder – so nice not to feel like I’m in a straight-jacket.
The sleeve caps have a LOT of ease. In fact, the sleeves in generally could probably lose about an inch from shoulder to cuff.
I think sewing in sleeves in the round is bullshit. I put in my basting-ease stitches in the cap, lined up my notches and sewed it flat. Not only did I get the same result without being driven to tequila, I also was able to top -stitch/mock flat felled seam everything. Mock meaning I pinked my seams and stitched them down flat. Worked out great.
This was my first collar stand. I was kinda surprised. I went through everything I’ve made – of which maybe 50% is cataloged here….and nope. No collar stands! So of course I put it on wrong. Then I graded/notched seams BEFORE I realized what I did – you can see the left side of the photo, the collar stand is smaller. Yeah. Whoops. So, it’s a bit wonky. Also my first button plackets and somehow I got one of those wrong as you can sorta see from that stitching down the middle. Whatevs. The shoulders and sleeves fit!! All my princess seaming and the length and waist point – happy with that. I’m calling it a win.
The only change I made is the pattern calls for the sleeve placket strip to be cut on grain – that must be a typo, but that’s CRAZY. If just doing a strip-placket….cut that on the bias! This pattern looks circa late 70s; I’m surprised that piece has been left on grain. That has to be wrong – that one I have done before both bias strip versions and proper placket and knew better. The cuffs were pretty easy and not new to me either. Hem was easypeasy.
I may tinker with grading the body down a size, and slimming the sleeves, but really, it’s all good. I think my next version I’ll make sleeveless, and see where I go with the body and the armscye. Does that seem like a reasonable place to start? Will probably be easier to tinker without the sleeves for a few versions? Then work the sleeves back to fit?