Colette – Sew Becky Jo

June 1, 2018

2018 MMMay – What did we learn?

I had the MOST fun this year during MMMay18 – more than I have had in previous years.

What was different?

Mostly my attitude. I went into to this May with a positive, open attitude and embraced the selfie-fun.

I also went into it with a real challenge. I’m a fairly confident sewist, so I needed to find something that would kick my butt a little bit and keep me humble.

We all know where those areas are, and the only way to move past any obstacle is to take it face-on. Of course, I still hope the car engine light goes off on its own – so take this life advice with a LOT of salt

I learned that even after removing what little RTW clothing I had, and moving little/never worn me-mades into their place, I still won’t wear makes that were in the flop-category. I’m looking at you, Lisette dress.

I also learned I wear tanks layered under clothes a LOT. Mostly cheap, cotton kinds from Gap Body or Target or whatever. I’ve just purchased these out of lazy convenience – I don’t even like how they fit. So I whipped up a racer-back tank pattern, and got a few of those done. Some scrap-busting Seamwork Geneva panties while I was at it too…. You can bet this will be my summer uniform when it gets hot.

My biggest surprise: the Seamwork Mojave and the Colette Aster shirt. I own the patterns, but not sewn yet (story of my life.) I picked up 2 Mojave dresses and an Aster at the Colette sample sale just at the end of April.

I wore both Mojave dresses and the Aster at least 2x each during MMMay18. I wasn’t sure at first, and thought I might want to turn the Mojave dresses into shirts….I figured they’d be too much like the Lisette and I’d feel pregnant-looking, but I REALLY love them.

My lesson here is that I need to go back to the the drawing board with dresses. I know I like tight-fitting maxis like the Kielo Dress. I strongly dislike the Lisette and the Itch-to-Stitch dress I made last year. So…I’m thinking I dislike fit/flare in general, but I am ok with volume in the right places. Or perhaps, fit/flare that’s too high-waisted?

Hmmm. I am really drawn to the Sew House 7 Tea Dress, above on dress form… and I know I love the Sew House 7 Burnside bibs already… is it too much like the Lisette? Should I try the Washi super pack I already own? Should I just get my butt in gear and draft stuff like I keep meaning too?

I also wear my Akita shirts A LOT, but want something else in that category. I have a pattern I want in my head….also listed under the ‘get my but in gear and draft’ category.

Along with my Akitas, I wear my Oslo sweaters and my jeans enough that I can justify making more. Ditto button up shirts. I don’t like my Agnes tops at all, however. Those will get donated.

I’ve got a pattern test wrap dress on the table now, and a few pairs of pants in the queue before I delve into that too much, so I’ll just enjoy my Mojave sale-scores for now.

How was your MMMay? What did you learn? What are you missing? Is there some magical design out there you wish existed?

July 15, 2015August 27, 2018

Seamwork Patterns Sydney and Savannah

I signed up for Seamwork Magazine the second they opened up the subscription. I have a penchant for Colette Patterns anyway, not necessarily for their style, but more so for the quality product. The Seamwork patterns seems to fall even more into my style preferences, so yay for finally finding a sewing magazine I dig.

Please ignore my severe RBF (resting b*tch face.) I seem to have it bad, when in actuality I was fighting with the remote sensor. I’m not denying I have RBF, but it’s always when I’m pensive or trying to trouble shoot.

Anywho, this is a lovely rayon I found at Joann’s fabric store. I just had to have it, and bought it without a project in mind, as I do. Then my friend Betsy decided to throw a birthday party for herself in the secret speakeasy at Circa 33, and I had to come up with something to wear!

The overlay Sydney is perfect. I made a large, although I should have made a medium. I ended up taking in the shoulders and an inch out of the back, with a 1.5″ taken out of the back neck. It kept sliding down. Fairly easy tweaks to make, however, and I wear this all the time now.

The Savannah is also a bit tweaked. I omitted the lacey top, made double straps, and lengthened about 6 inches to turn it into a summer slip dress-tunic thing.

Sorry about the bra – it was blessed hot out, and I wasn’t about to fuss with my strapless, or actual pants….

I’m too ~~old~~ modest to wear anything this short anymore, but you can see the length I settled on. I used the bias trim from the Sydney to finish the bottom of the Savannah, and it ties it nicely together. I generally wear this with some skinny jeans, but at this point my face was melting off from the heat and the jeans never would have come back off.

Right now, I have a couple Osakas on the cutting table, and bought some knit for an autumn Mesa, I will lengthen as well.

July 15, 2013July 14, 2013

Ottobre Bermuda Shorts

I’m loving getting the Ottobre subscription. The last pattern I did for the babies was a knit and a bit more on the intermediate side. These Bermuda style shorts are on the super-duper easy side.

They’re from the 3/2011 issue (you get a free back issue if you order a subscription) and they’re soooo customizable.

The kids and I sat down with the photo from the magazine and decided how they wanted them to function. Long, short, pockets, etc.

They only wanted front pockets, and this round we’re doing walking short length for Alex and almost clam-digger length for Hazel.

Hazel’s are a gifted fabric that feels like it’s probably linen or a linen blend.

They’re very light weight and breezy. She had her pick of the fabrics and made a good choice!

I took some pink grosgrain ribbon to trim the bottoms and the pockets.

The pockets are lined and sewn on top of the shorts making that much easier!

They have a cute mock-fly on the front.

It would be super easy to fold that part of the pattern under if you wanted to skip the fly.

Here’s a side shot after she wore them all day…

And there’s plenty of room for the buns…

The obligatory little sister matching outfit is just a onesie with a zig-zag stitched Z for Zoe and an elastic waistband skirt with pink Kona binding.

Alex’s shorts were made with some leftover Robert Kaufman linen-cotton denim from my Miette skirt.

I used the same variegated blue thread for stitching as well…

I lined the pockets with a cute black and cream gingham.

However, after just a few hours of wear, the seams started splitting.

Really splitting…

Really, really splitting…

Lesson learned…while the RK linen/cotton is a great fabric, I should have made another Colette Sorbetto with the leftovers or maybe something with more give like:

Regardless, I’m really glad I found this out before I used it in a quilted bag or something. The linen-cotton does not hold up to any stress on it whatsoever. Even if I were to restitch the seams, or re-enforce the seams, the stress on the fabric is the problem. I suppose I could line them, but at this point, when they’re made just to fit…I’m going to have to call them a loss. It may not be the blend so much as how it’s done. The Aztec vest was made in a RK linen and is holding up great, and I have some yarn dyed Essex that many quilters use and is thicker feeling than the cotton-linen.

Point is, if you’re looking to use one of the linens, I suggest sticking to the Essex or the straight up linen if you need to sew something with stress points aka structure. My Miette skirt went through the wash this week and held up great, therefore, in a garment with more drape, the linen-cotton is a wonderful option.

AND hello, Ottobre FTW again!

July 3, 2013July 3, 2013

How-To: My Pattern Organization

I dunno….admin work puts a sneer on my face….even if it’s for myself. The idea of “filing” patterns makes me just want to burn my bra.

That, and I need to SEE what I have….just the other day I was cruising the inter webs, going to finally buy a Renfrew and a Miette pattern, when I was positive I needed a knit-wrap-dress pattern too. I opened up my binder of patterns, and there was a Vogue knit-wrap-dress pattern staring indignantly at me. I already have one! (I have to come up with another reason to get a Cake pattern now….)

Which brings me to…well, I use binders.

Specifically, BIG white view binders in low-VOC and D-rings if I can get them.

I use sheet covers and tabs.

Tabs not because I’m going to actually number and collate and make a table of contents…oh hell no. hahahaha. NO. Just to have a place to mark between patterns.

It came time again to take the piles of patterns I had been accumulating and stashing around, and add them to the binders…so I took a few shots.

If this idea helps you, great. If not, eh. It’s just an idea. Filing works for some people, just not me.

Here’s an example of a store bought Burda pattern. I use the crap out of this pattern–specifically the pants.

I put the envelope and unused portion in one sleeve.

And the cut part and instructions in another…with any notes I may have. This pile happens to also be in a plastic bag.

My beloved Colette patterns get traced. I keep the booklet and original patterns in one sleeve and the traced patterns in another.

PDF patterns are similar. Instructions in one, cut patterns in another.

The inside pockets can hold wonky, oversized patterns.

I use the view portions to hold receipts, mostly so I can remember the fabric types, a ballpark of costs and what ever miscellaneous items I’m too lazy to find a place for…

After this cleaning, I can see I need new binders for quilt patterns and bag patterns as they’re growing to that point.

So…the pros are that I can leaf through them like a magazine. I can get an instant view of what I already have vs. what I might need. I also have no problem storing multiple traced sizes or versions to one set of instructions.

Cons are storage for the binders…they could, after this, still go down in a large drawer if you wanted, but mine sit on a shelf. Also, I’ve yet to decide how to handle traced patterns out of Ottobre or books. My traced patterns are very well labeled, but the visual of the finish photo would help. I’m not into printing more than I have to…so we’ll see. For example, I’ve printed the Miette pattern recently without printing the instructions, and I have some Craftsy patterns I haven’t printed yet…more decisions. My Burda book patterns, which I have the book on iBook, are ok because of the instruction covers.

I need to make a decision there soon because I totally forgot about the Craftsy patterns! Whoopsie! I may not have needed that Renfrew after all….oh, who are we kidding, sure I did!

April 28, 2013May 2, 2013

Colette Laurel – Mommy and Me Version

I finally finished! I had plans and schemes to do more than just 2 Colette Laurel dresses but with all I took on in the last month, I’m very happy with the 2 I finished!

These are both underlined in the bodice with the main fabric, which is a very light weight gingham. It’s a poly-cotton blend and before you say “Ew!”, it’s not like that. It’s super light, on the pretty sheer side, and very breathable. In fact, the only obvious ‘polyester’ thing going on is that it unravels wicked fast. I was inspired by a yard of some early 80s Concord calico I was gifted.

Yeah. I went full Country Bumpkin. I grew up in a town called Boring. I can do that.

Can you believe how tall she is? I’m about 5’9″ and she’s only 8 years old….this is the size 2 of the pattern.

I used the #1 pattern and added the pockets as well. I used the vintage calico for the 1/4″ double-folded bias tape – smaller to keep it a bit more subtle.

I could have moved the invisible zipper up a smidge, but overall the installs on the Laurel is really smooth.

Ok, so I did get the zipper flipped on one of the installs and had to redo a side. It’s true. It’s easy to do. I was distracted by baby cuteness.

I’m a bit rusty at embroidery. I contemplated some chicken-scratch cross stitch or something more elaborate, but stuck with simple double herringbone on the pockets with a super light weight stabilizer.

I entered the dress into the Flickr group for the Laurel dress competition. There are some amazing, amazing, amazing dresses in there. Cross your fingers for me.

We went to Burgerville today for some fast food picnic action and Hazel tested out the dress at the park. You can say all you want about a dress, but one that still looks good in this much movement and play…you know it’s a good dress. I’ve said it before about the Sorbetto, but Colette makes fabulous patterns. I used Swedish tracing paper to trace the 2 sizes without actually cutting the pattern, but I really think if you can get the print book, it’s the way to go.

Action Colette Laurel Dress Montage:

April 15, 2013April 15, 2013

Mommy & Me Sorbetto Blouses

Robert, Hazel and I braved the crazy spring weather to take photos in the Colette Sorbetto blouses. It rained buckets right after this, but luckily we got some fun(ny) shots in.

If you’re on the fence about sewing apparel, this is a great starting place and it’s incredibly versatile if you’re a bit more advanced. Or maybe you just want a half-dozen more tops for spring/summer ’13 – this will do it!

Hope you enjoy…and many thanks to our photographer!

April 10, 2013

2 Sorbettos Done – Part 3

Ah. I really love finishing a project. That moment of ‘done’ before I go off into other directions.

There was a bias tape snafu, oh…and I wasn’t paying attention when sewing the 2nd bottom seam and let the feed dogs do this number:

Nothing a seam ripper can’t handle, and overall it was a very simple and clean process, even doing 2 at once. In fact…the (free from Colette here) Sorbetto pattern is so easy and such a great wardrobe builder, I’d have a hard time justifying sewing one at a time.

Other than minor pleat snag above, I really was extra diligent and good about using my seam gauge and pins in the tiny hem. In this light-weight cotton and in this form, it’s important in order to get the correct drape in the final blouse.

I’m happy with how the bias tape edging turned out and super in love with the light gray color on the pattern – I think it keeps it sophisticated and keeps it from being too fussy.

I’ll get some Mommy & Me photos taken this weekend, I hope, with Hazel and I in our tops. Pacific NW weather isn’t always so predictable for such things. I think I have enough of the fabric leftover to put a little something together to have Zoe match too. We shall see.

April 8, 2013April 8, 2013

Sorbetto Tops Part 2 – Assembly

The cons of using a serger mid-project are that, if you don’t have the space to keep your serger out, you have to lug it out. You have to thread it if it’s not already threaded in an appropriately blending color (I often use neutrals and rarely color match thread) and you have to make sure it’s de-fuzzed and oiled and set the tension…all that jazz.

The pros – well. A zig-zag or overcast stitch on my sewing machine takes a LOT longer, do you sew it together first, then overcast it together, then press seam to one side or…I just don’t like doing it anymore. The speed of my serger and efficiency has spoiled me. It’s worth the cons for my usage level.

I’ve marked directly on my serger the 1/4, 3/8 and 5/8 inch marks from the knife of the serger. The knife cuts the fabric to the stitch as it goes through.

So…if I have a 5/8 inch seam allowance from a pattern, and I serge and cut at the same time to the 3/8 mark, that leaves me the width of the serger stitch, 1/4 inch, to finish the garment.

Knife to needle edge is 1/4 inch:

Finished stitch width:

Not only does it give me a finished edge that will be easy to press open once assembled, it gives me a guide to sew the 1/4 inch seams.

I removed any serger ‘tails’ of thread by just clipping them instead of threading them back in because it’s going to get sewn back over and encased in bias tape anyway.

I could have sewn the pieces together at the 5/8 inch mark and just done 2 steps in one, but for this light weight fabric and the assembly, I want the seams to be flat on the inside and more polished looking.

Here it is sewn together and you can see the difference between the cream thread which is my sewing machine’s overcast stitch and the gray of my serger:

And voila, the Sorbettos are now assembled.

Now, it’s time to choose the finishing bias tape colors. I went through all the solid fabrics I had that might work. I pulled in my (secretly) refined man for a second opinion.

It was a tough call, but it looks like I’ll be making light gray bias tape. I think it’s called Kona Stone.

April 7, 2013April 8, 2013

Sorbetto Part 1

So…this mystery fabric is going to be two Colette Sorbetto blouses. One for my daughter, which, by these measurements, is about a size 0-2, and one for me…with my shoulder width on top, I’m going to opt for the size 10.

Now, a note or two about Colette patterns. If you have the choice between printing a Colette pattern, or buying a printed booklet at a store or having it shipped, always go for the booklet. Colette patterns are a thing of beauty and perfection. I’m not just saying that because Sarai is a Portlander too – I don’t even know the lovely lady – I’m saying it because they really are of the highest quality and worth every penny. Regardless, she includes instructions and tips that are unparalleled. I didn’t go to school for fashion or textiles, unfortunately, but Sarai shares her knowledge so that I can be a better seamstress. A Burda pattern is great and everything, but Sarai will remind you always to stay-stitch your neckline or how easy it is to make your own bias tape…complete with free tutorials. How cool is that? Not to mention it’s in a stitch-bound booklet with a pocket to hold the pattern.

Now, after I said all of that…the Sorbetto is a free printable and still includes all of the Colette tips and reminders.

Tip about printing PDFs from online: print from Adobe Reader/Acrobat, NOT FROM BROWSER WINDOW. The browser will most likely want to include the URL line at the top and bottom. Also make sure to click ‘print full size’ when in your print driver window. These are things that will make your print ratio off and that is bad, mmmkay?

The instructions say to print them all, tape them all together and THEN print…you do as you like, this isn’t a complicated pattern and I preferred to cut them all out in the proper size then puzzle piece it together. I did it both ways just to make sure…and yeah, I prefer cutting first.

This is my uber scientific mathematic way to make sure Haze’s should fit her:

I cut everything out and got ready to do the sewing.

This is me sewing late at night and obviously having a ‘stuck’ moment…’where was I again?’

Oh, that’s right…transferring markings…

This pattern requires 1.5 yards, so for 2, I needed 3 yards. I was a bit short, so I didn’t cut my front piece on the fold. I backed it up, cut it with an added 1/4″ to piece it together. I figure with the sheerness of the fabric, it’s best to have a seam inside the pleat where it won’t show…that’s my theory and I’m sticking to it.

Here it is pieced together and seam flattened out and pressed….

I think it will be fine.

Oh, more action shots….stay stitching the collar line.

This is just stitching around the neckline at the 1/8″ mark to keep it from getting wonky as you throw it around and sew it up. That’s Boring, Oregon speak for: to keep the bias of the collar from stretching out and warping the structure of the garment.

I did one dart with it sewn and pressed down:

And one with the darts trimmed and finished.

I’m not sure that I have a preference at this point but I’m going to tinker with both.

Do you ever look at markings on a pattern and go, “Yeah, I’ll just put those marks on the fabric right through the pattern! Derp!” No, I’m not breaking out a wheel to perforate and chalk through the pattern. Luckily this pleat isn’t so bad. I marked the top and bottom of the pleat…

…then used a ruler to connect my line.

This is me starting to get really, really tired and happy the pleats are done and sewn down.

That’s the one with the seam in the middle…I think my plan worked….

This …this is the point where it is time to sew them together…but first, I’m going to break out my serger and finish my side seams. Handy dandy serger. After some sleep.

Action shots courtesy of Robert Wagner.

April 6, 2013April 4, 2013

Fabrics A to Z by Dana Willard Review

I went out to Boring, Oregon to hang with my family and the chickens for Easter this year – now that’s a real Easter egg hunt: hanging around a bunch of hens that have free range on a few acres!

My mom had told me she picked up a fabric reference books for me a couple weeks prior….she knows of my fabric habits. As much as I love the remnant bins, they’re not always labeled accurately, if at all, and when you’re donated a box from an attic, it’s anyone’s guess as to what is in it.

So when I got out there for Easter, had already laid out on the lawn for an hour and leafed through the book, I finally really looked at the cover….

Of course. It’s Dana Willard. THE Dana Willard of MADE fame. I used her shirt tutorial for the DIY baby clothes, etc. Yeah, so of course it’s great.

I love how it’s set up – it’s clean, concise, categorized by type and has little fast icons up top for what you’d use each fabric for…So often these kinds of guides are verbose, cumbersome and boooorrrring. You know what happens when I get a book like that? I skim it and miss something important or stress on something that is actually not important.

No, this book is perfect.

So perfect, in fact, I used it right away.

In a gifted box, I found this beauty. I didn’t do a burn test (to see if there’s a synthetic in it that melts), but I’m confident it’s cotton from the shrinkage in the wash and the feel. I love the rose, mauve and gray colorway – a muted feminine look to it.

I have no idea how old it is…I know it’s not particularly recent. The selvage isn’t marked with a label. It can’t be a Walmart fabric because I know it was purchased in Oregon and Walmart is too new to Oregon for this to be purchased there….I thought it might be at first because it was pretty stiff/scratchy until I washed it. It softened up quite a bit after washing. So, all of that, it remains a bit of a mystery. According to the Dana Guide (yes, I’m renaming it – my name is better), it fits well enough into the voile or lawn category for me. You can see here, held up to the light, how breezy/sheer it is:

There’s just under 3 yards – not made any better by this lovely hack job off the bolt-curve, so, I’ll have to do some creative fabric use to plan around those missing inches…

I decided Hazel and I need some matching spring blouses out of it, so I downloaded the free Sorbetto pattern from Colette Patterns. I have the Laurel I purchased, but after quilting so much lately, this will get me back into seamstress mode before I attack the Laurel.

I’ll be sharing more of course as I go. For 2 blouses, I need 3 yards, and with that missing chunk that is actually missing on both ends, it will be interesting.